Everything You’ll Need

Tool Checklist

Tool / MaterialPurpose
Tape MeasureMeasure room dimensions and tile spacing
Chalk LineMark center lines and layout guides
Straight EdgeGuide straight cuts and layout lines
Pry BarRemove baseboards or old flooring
SpacersEnsure consistent grout joint spacing
Notched TrowelSpread mortar evenly on the subfloor
Mixing Paddle & DrillMix mortar and grout to proper consistency
Wet Saw or Tile CutterCut tiles for edges, corners, and obstacles
Utility KnifeTrim underlayment or score backer board
LevelEnsure tiles are even and level as you work
Grout FloatPress grout into joints at the right angle
Bucket & SpongeClean tiles and remove grout haze
Knee PadsProtect knees during long periods on the floor
Safety GlassesEye protection during cutting
GlovesProtect hands from sharp edges and mortar
Cement Backer Board (if needed)Underlayment to stabilize tiles and resist moisture

Optional (But Helpful):

Tool / MaterialPurpose
Rubber MalletTap tiles gently into place without cracking
Tile NippersFor small, precise cuts or corners
Grout SealerSeal grout lines to protect against moisture and stains

Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Away Baseboards and Old Flooring

First, take off any baseboards and old flooring to see the subfloor. This gives a smooth, even surface for your installation.

Use a pry bar to gently take off the baseboards without breaking the walls. If changing carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into easy pieces and clean off any sticky stuff. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or a floor scraper to lift and take out the tiles and mortar.

Clean the Subfloor Well

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of all dust, dirt, and debris. A clean surface helps the mortar stick well and keeps the floor smooth.

Look for Damage or Moisture

Check the subfloor for cracks, holes, or uneven parts. Use a level to find dips or high spots.

  • Cracks or holes: Fill them with a patching mix.
  • Uneven areas: Use a floor leveling compound to make a flat, steady base.
    If you’re working over concrete, check for moisture using a moisture meter. High moisture can cause problems with the flooring, so fix any moisture issues first.

Put Down Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)

Depending on your subfloor type:

  • Wood subfloors: Put down cement backer board for a stable, water-resistant base.
  • Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t need underlayment, but a crack isolation membrane or waterproofing membrane might be suggested sometimes.

Secure backer board panels following the manufacturer’s instructions, using the right screws and leaving the right gaps between panels.

Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout

Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines

Start by finding the room’s center. Use a tape measure to get the middle of each wall and make chalk lines on the floor. The crossing point is where you start laying flooring. This keeps everything looking even and nice.

Choose Your Flooring Layout Pattern

If you’re new to this, simple patterns are best:

  • Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Floors are lined up with the walls, making neat rows.
  • Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Floors are set at a 45-degree angle for a fun look — a bit harder but doable.

Note: Hard designs like herringbone or chevron need more skill and aren’t suggested for beginners.

Dry-Fit Flooring to Check Alignment

Lay some rows without glue to dry-fit. This helps you to:

  • Check how it lines up and the spaces between.
  • See how it meets walls or doors.
  • Avoid small awkward pieces at the edges.

Spacing and Grout Lines

Use spacers during the dry fit for even grout lines. Common sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, depending on style.

Calculate Flooring Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)

Measure the room (length × width). Then:

  • Multiply the area by 1.10 for simple patterns or 1.15 for diagonal or tricky areas to cover mistakes and future fixes.
  • Order this amount to have enough for the whole job.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

When it comes to flooring projects, we offer several options. Visit our showroom to explore choices like carpet, hardwood, hardwood refinishing, luxury vinyl, and laminate. Financing options are available to help with your project.

Common Flooring Types:

  • Carpet
    Soft and comfortable, great for bedrooms and living rooms.
  • Hardwood
    A classic choice, durable, and adds value to your home.
  • Hardwood Refinishing
    Restore and refresh your existing hardwood floors.
  • Luxury Vinyl
    Stylish and water-resistant, ideal for any room.
  • Laminate
    Affordable and easy to maintain, perfect for high-traffic areas.

Note: For durable and lasting results, choose the flooring type that suits your needs best.

Flooring TypeBest ForDurabilityDIY FriendlinessNotes
CarpetWarmth and comfort⭐⭐⭐ (Good)ModerateSoft underfoot, varies in style and color.
HardwoodClassic look and value⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Great)ChallengingLong-lasting with proper care.
Luxury VinylWater resistance, style⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Great)EasyIdeal for bathrooms and kitchens.
LaminateHigh-traffic areas⭐⭐⭐ (Good)EasyCost-effective and versatile.

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor

Mix the Mortar
Begin by mixing the thinset mortar as directed by the manufacturer. Use a clean bucket and a drill with a mixing paddle to get a smooth mix without lumps. Let the mortar sit for a few minutes, then mix again before using.

Spread the Mortar
With a notched trowel, spread the mortar evenly on a small part of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to form even ridges. These help the tile stick well and ensure the right depth for a flat install.

Work in Small Sections
Cover only as much area as you can tile in 10–15 minutes. This keeps the mortar from drying before the tiles are put down.

Pro Tip:
For bigger tiles, apply a thin layer of mortar on the back for better sticking, especially for tiles over 12 inches.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles

Starting right sets the stage for the whole project.

Begin at Your Layout Center Point
Use chalk lines from your planning to start at the room’s center or focal point. This helps spread the flooring evenly.

Set the First Piece
Put the first flooring piece in place. Press it down and twist a bit to make sure it sticks well.

Use Spacers
Put spacers between pieces to keep gaps even for a neat finish.

Check for Level
After laying a few pieces, use a level to make sure the surface is flat. Adjust if needed before it sets.

Pro Tip:
Work in small areas so your adhesive doesn’t dry too fast!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit

Accurate cutting is important for a nice, professional finish.

Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to find out the size you need. Mark the line clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.

Choose the Right Tool

  • For straight cuts, a manual cutter is good.

  • For curved or tricky cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.

Cut in a Safe Area
Always cut outside or in a place with good air flow to avoid dust. Wear safety glasses and gloves to stay safe.

Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to save material and get a perfect fit!

Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure

Begin by placing the first pieces of flooring. Keep adding more pieces in rows, starting from your initial spot. Use spacers to make sure the space between pieces stays even. Regularly check that the pieces are level, adjusting as necessary to avoid uneven surfaces.

As you work, be careful not to step on new flooring to prevent movement. Work in small areas to ensure the adhesive doesn’t dry out before placing the flooring.

Once all pieces are in place, let the adhesive set for at least 24 hours (or follow the manufacturer’s instructions) before proceeding to the next step. Proper setting is important for a strong and lasting floor.

Step 8: Apply Grout

After the mortar is set, grout the spaces between tiles:

  1. Mix the Grout
    Follow the directions to make grout smooth like peanut butter.

  2. Spread Grout with a Float
    Use a rubber float at a 45° angle to spread grout on the tiles. Press hard to fill all spaces.

  3. Remove Extra Grout
    After filling, tilt the float sharply to scrape off extra grout.

  4. Clean Tiles with a Damp Sponge
    Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then gently wipe tiles with a damp sponge. Rinse often and keep grout in spaces.

  5. Final Buffing
    When grout starts to haze (after 30–60 minutes), use a dry cloth to buff and remove haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor

Remove Grout Haze
After the grout dries (usually 24 to 48 hours), a hazy layer will show up on the tiles. Use a damp sponge or special grout haze remover to gently wipe the tiles. Be careful not to touch the grout lines.

Apply Grout Sealer
If the grout maker suggests it, put on a grout sealer to keep it safe from water, stains, and mold. Use a small brush or a sealer bottle with a roller for precision. Let the sealer dry completely as per the instructions.

Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
When everything is clean and dry, put back your baseboards and add any needed transition strips between different floors or rooms. This makes your new floor look neat and professional.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation

Choosing between doing it yourself or hiring a professional for flooring installation can be tricky. Here’s how to decide which is best for you.

DIY Pros

  • Costs less at first
  • Work at your own speed
  • Good for small, simple spaces (bathrooms, laundry rooms)

DIY Cons

  • Takes time and special tools
  • Mistakes can be costly
  • Hard for big or complex areas

Professional Installation Pros

  • Experts give precise, lasting results
  • Quickly done, especially in big spaces
  • Includes prep, cutting, and cleaning
  • Often comes with warranties

Professional Installation Cons

  • Costs more upfront
  • Less control over timing

Cost Comparison

Expect these costs:

Installation TypeAverage Cost per Sq FtTypical Total for 250 Sq Ft
DIY Installation$2 – $8 (materials + rental tools)$500 – $2,000
Professional Installation$8 – $25$2,000 – $6,250

👉 For more details, check out our Cost Guide.

Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation

Want to achieve great results with your DIY project? Remember these tips:

  • Save time by organizing tools before starting. Keep everything you need close by.
  • Use a high-quality wet saw for clean, precise cuts.
  • Mix small batches of mortar and grout. This stops them from drying out too soon.
  • Check for level often with a spirit level as you work.
  • Work in small sections. This helps the mortar stay wet while you work.
  • Minimize breakage. Cut slowly and wear safety glasses.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even skilled DIYers can make these mistakes:

  1. Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven floor can lead to cracks and crooked lines.
  2. Forgetting spacers. Uneven lines can look unprofessional.
  3. Walking on surfaces before the mortar sets. This can move and misalign materials.
  4. Using too much or too little mortar. This affects adhesion and levels.
  5. Not cleaning grout haze quickly. Waiting too long makes it hard to remove.

Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?

Want to learn about flooring? We have carpet, hardwood, hardwood refinishing, luxury vinyl, and laminate. Our team can help with everything from start to finish, making sure it’s just right for you.

Our expert flooring installation team takes care of every detail, ensuring a perfect, long-lasting finish. We can also help you pick the best materials and style for your home and budget.

Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and find out if we serve your area!